![]() |
![]() |
||
|
|
![]() |
|
|
|
||
This period is known by a number of titles - Baroque, Colonial, and Georgian among them. In the early 1700's the dominant item of women's dress was the mantua, which was an overdress worn over a stomacher and petticoat that was at the sides and often had a train. This form of dress developed into the petticoat and robe with stomacher that many people now recognize as "Colonial" or "Marie Antonette". An important feature that defines this period is the shape of the corset. The corset (or stays) were heavily boned with either walebone or reed. At the sides of the front, the boning of the stays slants towards the center front resulting in a cone shape. The petticoat was intended to be seen, as the robe worn over it was open in the front. The robe had a bodice that often did not close in front - this area would then be filled in with a trianglular stomacher. The skirts of the robe were attached and open in front. The edges of these skirts, the bodice of the robe, and the petticoat were often decorated with ruffled strips of fabric called ruesching. The robe had sleeves that were 3/4 length, coming just below the elbow. These sleeves were usually worn with ruffles made of lace or embroidered linen know as engageante (sleeve ruffles). By the end of the century the fashionable sleeve was long and fitted. In the early decades of the 18th century the petticoats were round. By the 1730's this had evolved into what the Victorians dubbed "panniers" - hooped petticoats that were wide on the sides and relatively flat in the front and back. This shape had a big advantage in that it showed off the decorations on the skirts of the robe. By the 1780's the fashionable shape changed to a full skirt with a bustle pad in the back. The skirts of the robe were then drawn up with loops on the inside. This style was known as the polonaise. Clothing styles changed dramatically following the French Revolution in the 1790's. The waistlines of the gowns rose very high until they were just under the bustline. This is the Empire style that arose due to Greek influences. The city of Pompei was discovered at this time and created a fascination with all things "Grecian". This style dominated the early decades of the 19th Century. Men's clothing consisted of a shirt, breeches, a waistcoat, and an overcoat. The breeches came to just below the knee. It was fashionable to show off your calves and if you were not blessed with nice muscular ones, you could stuff your hose with horsehair! The shirt was considered an undergarment and very few men would go out without at least a waistcoat over it. The waistcoat could either have sleeves or not. It buttoned down the front and covered the top of the breeches. In the early to mid part of the century the waistcoat was thigh length and straight in front. In the 1770's the waistcoat was shorter and often the bottom front was cut to slant towards the sides. A neck stock with or without ruffles was worn around the neck, and sometimes a cravat. A carvat is a scarf like peice of silk that is tied around the neck - there are many ways to tie a cravat. The cravat is the ancestor of the modern neck tie. The coat began the cetury as a long outer garment - it usually came down to the bottoms of the breeches. The skirts of the coat were very full in the early part of the century. By mid century the cut was straighter, and by the 1780's was cut away at the front and often did not button closed at all. This style showed off the waistcoat to great advantage, and often the waistcoat, the front opening of the coat, and the pockets of both garments were decorated with embroidery and/or braid. |
|||
![]() |
|
|---|---|
1740's Man's Wool CoatThe coat is made from very thick, almost felted wool typical of the period. As the fabric is so heavy, the edges where the sleeve join the cuff and along the front and bottom hems are not seamed together on the wrong side and turned as in modern construction. They are cut to length and topstitched close to the edge. The density of the fabric prevents it from unraveling as modern wool would. The skirts of the coat are full. It is partially lined in creme brocade and trimed with silver braid. I took the braid trim pattern from an original coat that is part of the Colonial Williamsburg collection. This coat is pictured in (name of book). The buttonholes are trimmed with a narrow silver braid. |
|
1740's Wood Coat - Front |
1740's Wool Coat - Back |
1740's Coat - Side |
1740's Coat - Sleeve Detail
|
1740's Wool Coat - Back Detail |
1740's Wool Coat - Pocket Detail |
1740's Coat - Bill enjoying libations at the Depreciation Lands Museum Tavern Night. Don't spill any on that coat! |
|
![]() |
|
1750's Ladies Yellow Stripe Cotton Gown and Man's WaistcoatThis dress was inspired by a photograph of an original gown in "Kyoto Fashion: The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute" by Akiko Fukai. It consists of a petticoat and gown made of the same fabric. The petticoat is trimmed with a ruffle that is "caught up" in several places with olive ribbon. The gown or robe has "robings" along the front openings. It laces over a stomacher of the same fabric with ribbon. The matching straw hat is trimmed with velvet ribbon and straw flowers. The hat is worn over a white linen cap, both pictured on the millinery page. The man's waistcoat is made of cotton broadcoth embroidered by machine to emulate period embroidery. The buttons are covered with self fabric, and the buttonholes are trimmed with blue braid. It is worn with a shirt and navy blue breeches. |
|
1750's Man's Waistcoat and Ladies Yellow Stripe Gown |
|
![]() |
|
1760's Court GownWorn over panniers, this gown is made from tan brocade trimmed with ruesching and burgundy braid. The stomacher is trimmed with a ladder of bows made from burgundy and gold antique ribbon. The petticoat is made from the same fabric and is trimmed with ruffles. |
|
1760's Court Gown - shown also with man's wool coat. |
Detail of front of 1760's Court Gown. |
![]() |
|
1780's Caraco Jacket and PetticoatThe caraco jacket is made from red watermarked taffeta. The front opening and stomacher are trimmed with dark red braid. The stomacher has a false button closure - and idea I got from a gown pictured in "Kyoto Fashion: The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute" by Akiko Fukai. The skirts of the jacket have loops sewn to the inside so that it can be gathered up "a la polonaise". The skirt is made from a printed cotton fabric. Prints of this type were common in the period. The outfit is worn over a bustle pad or "bum roll" to give it the correct 1780's shape. |
|
Caraco Jacket and Skirt |
|
Front Detailo of Caraco Jacket. |
Side view of Caraco Jacket. |
![]() |
|
1780's Zoned Bodice GownThe term "zoned bodice" refers to the shape of the front and stomacher of this gown - the front meets at the top center front and then slants outwards towards the hip. The space in between is filled in with a stomacher. This dress is made from purple and blue shot silk taffeta. The dress and petticoat are trimmed with pinked ruffles of self fabric, embroidered and embelished with ribbon floral trim. The gown is a Robe A L'Anglaise (English Back) with the back pleats sewn down to the waistline. It has 3/4 length sleeves as was fashionable in this period. The stomacher is also embroidered. |
|
1780's Zoned Gown - Front |
1780's Zoned Gown - Front Detail |
1780's Zoned Gown - Back |
1780's Zoned Gown - Back Detail |
1780's Zoned Gown - Side |
1780's Zoned Gown - Skirt & Petticoat Detail |
![]() |
|
1780's Man's Embroidered Suit and WaistcoatThis is my first crack at a completely coordinated and embroidered man's 18th century suit! It has been a long standing dream of mine to make one of these! I had a 6 week deadline to make it so it is not as elaborate as many of the originals. The next one will be even better, I promise! It is difficult to place these these embroideries so that they line up correctly when the coat is cut out and sewn together. Now, as in the 18th century, the embroidery is usually done before the garment is cut out. This suit is made in the 1780's style. The fall front breeches came into style because both the waistcoat and coat are now cut away in front. This makes a nice clean line where the breeches show in the front. This coat does not button - it is intended to lay flat on the chest and sweep backwards at the sides, much like a modern formal tailcoat (which is a descendent of this garment). The pockets, sleeves, and stand up collar are outlined with a metallic braid trim. The breeches are fall front and are made from the same olive twill fabric as the coat. They are trimmed with embroidery around the knee bands and have embroidered self fabric buttons that coordinate with the coat. The waistcoat is made from a greenish-blue silk embroidered in a floral pattern. I did not draft out the embroidery for the waistcoat - it is made from a peice of designer decorator embroidered silk. The thread colors for the coat's embroidery were chosen from the colors of the waistcoat embroidery. The waistcoat is lined in white linen, and the back is constructed entirely in white linen. The pocket is outlined with coordinating embroidery, and the buttons are self fabric embroidered with thread to match the coat. The suit is shown over an 18th century cotton shirt, purchased from Jas Townsend and Sons. |
|
1780s Olive Suit |
1780s Olive Suit - Front Detail |
1780s Olive Suit - Back |
1780s Olive Suit - Back Detail |
1780s Olive Suit - Side View |
1780s Olive Suit - Waistcoat Front |
1780s Olive Suit - Waistcoat Back |
1780s Olive Suit - Waistcoat Side |
1780s Olive Suit - Breeches |
1780s Olive Suit - Detail of Embroidery Around Breeches Knee Band and Buttons |
![]() |
|
1790's Blue Linen DressBy the 1790's the style of the sleeve changed to long and tight, coming to the wrists. This is an example of a "round gown". Notice there is no stomacher - instead the gown closes in the center front. This is the feature of the round gown. The petticoat is made from the same fabric as the gown. This gown was designed to be more of a middle class gown, so it does not have the elaborate trim of some of the others. It is worn with a straw hat in the 1790's style, pictured on the millinery page. |
|
1790's Linen Gown |
|
Site MenuHome | Embroidery | Portfolio | Vintage Bridal | Mom's Page | Ruby Lane | Ebay Store | Historically Performed Portfolio MenuMedieval | 18th Century | Empire | Romantic | Antebellum / Civil War | Late Victorian | Edwardian | Undergarments | MillineryCopyright 2009 Age of Antiquity |
|---|